Getting a new router up and running doesn’t have to be complicated. Whether you’re setting up a home office, a small business, or just replacing an ageing piece of hardware, this guide walks you through everything you need to know, in plain English.
What’s the Difference Between a Modem and a Router?
Before touching any cables, it helps to understand what you’re actually working with.
Your modem connects your building to the internet. It’s usually provided by your ISP (internet service provider) and translates the signal coming in from the street into something your network can use.
Your router takes that connection and shares it across multiple devices, by wire or wirelessly. It’s the device that creates your local network and manages traffic between your devices and the internet.
Some ISPs provide a single device that does both jobs, called a gateway or modem-router combo. These are convenient, but they’re often limited in performance and features. If you’re serious about your network, a dedicated router is worth the investment.
What You’ll Need
- Your router (and its power adapter)
- An ethernet cable (usually included in the box)
- Your modem or ISP gateway
- A computer or phone to complete the setup
- Your ISP account details (sometimes needed, sometimes not)
Step 1: Position Your Router Carefully
Where you place your router has a significant impact on your wireless performance.
Good placement:
- Central location in your space, not tucked in a corner
- Off the floor, on a desk or shelf is better
- Away from microwaves, cordless phones, and other devices that cause interference
- In the open, not inside a cupboard or cabinet
Walls, floors, and large metal objects all reduce signal strength. The closer your devices are to the router, the better the connection.
Step 2: Connect the Hardware
- Plug your modem into the wall (coax or phone line, depending on your ISP).
- Connect an ethernet cable from the modem’s output port to the WAN (or “Internet”) port on your router. This port is usually a different colour from the others.
- Plug the router into power and wait for it to boot. This usually takes 60–90 seconds.
If you’re replacing an old router, power everything off first, swap the hardware, then power the modem back on before the router.
Step 3: Connect to the Router
Before you can configure anything, you need to access the router’s admin interface.
Option A — Via WiFi:
Look on the back or bottom of your router for the default WiFi network name (SSID) and password. Connect your device to that network.
Option B — Via Ethernet:
Plug a cable directly from your computer into one of the router’s LAN ports. This is the more reliable option during setup.
Once connected, open a browser and type the router’s IP address into the address bar. Common defaults are:
192.168.1.1192.168.0.110.0.0.1
The correct address is usually printed on the router itself. You’ll be prompted for a username and password…check the label on the device.
Step 4: Run the Setup Wizard
Most modern routers include a setup wizard that walks you through the basics. For the vast majority of home and small office users, the simplest and most common setup is double NAT: your ISP modem/gateway handles the connection to the internet, and your router connects to it just like any other device would. Your router then creates its own private network behind it.
This is how most people run their networks, and it works perfectly well for everyday use. You don’t need to change anything on the ISP gateway to make it work, just connect the WAN port of your router to the gateway and let the wizard run.
When asked about your internet connection type during setup, select DHCP / Dynamic IP. Your router will automatically receive an address from the ISP gateway and the internet connection will work immediately.
That covers most setups. The other connection types you may encounter are:
- PPPoE — common for DSL connections (TELUS in some areas). You’ll need your ISP username and password.
- Static IP — typically used for dedicated business connections where you’ve been assigned a fixed IP address by your ISP.
If you’re unsure which applies to you, DHCP is the right starting point. If it doesn’t work, contact your ISP or check your welcome documentation.
A Note on Bridged Mode (Advanced)
Some users put their ISP gateway into bridge mode, which disables its routing functions and lets the third-party router handle everything directly. This eliminates the double NAT and gives the router full control over the connection, useful for advanced configurations like VPNs, port forwarding, or specific firewall rules.
Bridge mode is worth considering if you’re running a business network with specific requirements, but it requires logging into the ISP gateway to configure and the steps vary by device and provider. For most home and small office users, double NAT works just fine and isn’t worth the added complexity.
Step 5: Change the Default WiFi Name and Password
The default network name and password that come with your router are fine for initial access, but you should change them.
Choosing a WiFi name (SSID):
- Keep it something recognisable but not personally identifiable
- Avoid using your name, address, or ISP name
- Don’t use special characters if you have older devices
Choosing a password:
- Length matters most, aim for at least 16 characters
- A passphrase works well: a string of random common words with standard punctuation them is both strong and memorable enough to type without looking it up character by character
- For example:
Correct.Horse_Battery?Stapler!orRandom_Words.Make4EZ_Passwords! - Avoid non-standard characters (é, ñ, ©, ™ and similar)…these can prevent older devices from connecting
- As always, avoid obvious words, names, or dates
If your router offers both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands, you have two options. Most modern routers support band steering a single network name that automatically connects devices to the best available band. This is the simplest approach and works well with modern devices. Alternatively, you can give each band its own name (e.g. HomeNetwork_2.4 and HomeNetwork_5) for manual control, which is useful if you have older or IoT devices that struggle with band steering. See my post on WiFi bands for a fuller explanation of the trade-offs.
Step 6: Change the Admin Credentials
This step is critical and frequently skipped.
The default admin username and password for your router are publicly known, anyone who can access your network can look them up. Change them immediately.
Go to the admin settings (usually under Administration, System, or Management) and set a strong, unique password. Store it somewhere safe, like a password manager.
Step 7: Enable the Right Security Protocol
Under your wireless settings, look for the security or encryption option. Set it to WPA3 if your router supports it. If not, WPA2 is the next best option.
Never use WEP or WPA, both are outdated and easily compromised.
Step 8: Update the Firmware
Router firmware updates fix security vulnerabilities and improve performance. Check for updates in the admin panel, usually under Administration or Advanced Settings and apply any available updates before putting the router into regular use.
Some routers can be set to update automatically. Enable this if the option is available.
A Note for Gamers: Consider Disabling Band Steering
For static devices (Xbox, PlayStation, desktop PC) plug them in. A wired ethernet connection beats WiFi for gaming every time: no interference, no bandwidth issues, no congestion.
If a cable isn’t practical, create a dedicated 5 GHz SSID specifically for gaming. Disable band steering (Smart Connect on ASUS ROG, Netgear Nighthawk, and TP-Link Archer routers) and connect your gaming device to that SSID manually. It stays on the faster band, traffic stays predictable, and you’re not competing with phones, tablets, and smart devices for airtime.
For everything else in the house: phones, tablets, smart devices. Band steering works fine and keeps things simple.
Optional but Recommended: Set Up a Guest Network
If you have visitors, clients, or smart home devices, a guest network keeps them separate from your main network. This limits what they can access and reduces your exposure if a guest device is compromised.
Most routers support this under Wireless Settings or Guest Network. Give it its own name and password, and enable the option to isolate guests from the local network if available.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Leaving default credentials in place. This is the most common and most dangerous mistake. Always change both the WiFi password and the admin password. It’s like moving into a new home and leaving the garage door open with the front door unlocked…anyone who knows the default can waltz straight in.
Placing the router in a bad location. A router in a back room or inside a cabinet will deliver noticeably worse performance across your space. Think of it like putting your desk lamp on the floor…it still works, but it no longer lights up what it’s supposed to.
Ignoring firmware updates. Unpatched routers are a known entry point for attackers. Check for updates regularly. Think of them like manufacturer recalls…they exist for your safety, and ignoring them leaves a known problem in place.
Using the same network for everything. Keep IoT devices, guest devices, and work devices on separate networks where possible. Putting everyone on the same network is like giving delivery drivers the same door code as your staff…they get access to far more than they need.
Skipping the reboot after ISP changes. If your internet stops working after connecting a new router, try rebooting the modem first, then the router. Your modem needs to recognise the new device…skipping the reboot is like introducing yourself to someone new but never actually telling them your name and then wondering why they don’t respond.
A properly designed network doesn’t just work, it’s secure, reliable, and built to grow with you.